Spicy San Antonio: Jerk Chicken from The Jerk Shack

Bottom Line: The Jerk Shack is cooking up some first-rate jerk chicken that has all the flavor and heat you expect from this island dish.

Jerk Chicken has been getting more popular lately, with variations of the dish showing up on quite a number of menus. But when you get something with “jerk” in the title from one of the national chains, you don’t know if you are really experiencing this Jamaican favorite as you would on the island. The marinade is a mélange of spices and seasonings designed to add a peppery kick along with a hint of the Caribbean. It was traditionally used with goat, but poultry is the meat of choice for most places in the States because it is more familiar to diners.

I have sampled Jerk Chicken variations from many of the national chains and found them relatively decent. But if I want the real thing, I’m going to be looking for a hole-in-the-wall sort of place that specializes in Jamaican food. Now, I don’t know that I can really call The Jerk Shack in San Antonio a “hole-in-the-wall” joint because it is so well known across town and Chef Nicola Blaque has received national attention. But it does specialize in island cuisine, and it is certainly a go-to place for all things jerk.

There is only one location on the far west side of town, and I happened to be in the area, so I decided to finally give them a try. I debated getting the pork because I have been eating so much chicken lately, but I ultimately had to go with their signature dish. I got the three-piece plate that comes with two sides, and for the latter I chose the creamy cheese grits and pineapple slaw. (I really wanted the collard greens, but they were out that day.)

As you would expect, this was a sizeable meal with the chicken pieces consisting of a breast and two drumsticks. They had the look and smell of meat that had been on the grill, and I tore right into that bird. It was nice and tender throughout, plenty juicy, and you could tell that it was well-seasoned in the marinade and slow-cooked to deliver the best flavor. It had a good smokiness to it, and the jerk added the expected peppery kick along with a complex blend of flavors that celebrate its island origins.

And this bird has some good heat as well, going beyond Medium on my scale. Since they use habaneros and/or scotch bonnet peppers in the jerk seasoning, you might expect more heat, but this is right in line with what I have encountered from a good version of the dish. It is not so much about setting your mouth on fire as it is about the convergence of seasonings that tantalize your taste buds and create a festival of flavors in your mouth. The Jerk Shack certainly succeeds at that, and they have earned a place on my Spicy San Antonio list.

As for those cheesy grits, they count as a near-perfect side if you can’t get the collard greens. They are nice and creamy with a touch of sharpness from the cheese and a little extra kick from the seasoning. They also offer a good counterbalance to the heat of the chicken. The slaw is quite fresh and not over-marinated, with the cabbage delivering some crunch and the pineapple adding sweetness. That also offers a nice cooling effect between bites of the spicy chicken.

At $22 for the plate, that is on the pricey side, but that is the cost of quality food these days. And it was big enough (especially with the two sides) that I could have split it across two meals. But the chicken and grits were so good that there was nothing left on my tray at the end of the meal. I don’t make it to that side of town too often, but when I do, I will definitely return to The Jerk Shack to sample more of their island cuisine.

The Jerk Shack
10234 TX-151 Suite 103
San Antonio, TX 78251
Phone: (210) 776-7780

Hours:
Mon – Thu: 11 AM to 9 PM
Fri – Sat: 11 AM to 9 PM
Sun: 11 AM to 4 PM