Review: Hillbilly Queso from Torchy’s Tacos

Bottom Line: The Hillbilly Queso from Torchy’s Tacos offers a kicked-up version of their first-rate regular queso, and it brings some heat as well.

Torchy’s Tacos got its start as a food truck in Austin, TX, in 2006, becoming a local favorite in that city and since expanding to over 130 brick-and-mortar locations across sixteen states (and still growing). They are known for their “Damn Good Tacos,” which include gourmet twists on the taco like the Trailer Park (fried chicken, green chiles, lettuce, pico de gallo, mixed cheese with poblano sauce), the Hogfather (green chile pork carnitas, teriyaki sauce, bacon, crispy onions, grilled corn relish, cotija cheese, cilantro), and the Fried Avocado (fried avocados, refried pinto beans, pico de gallo, lettuce, mixed cheese with poblano sauce).

I have tried all of these and more (you can read a prior review here), and all are excellent, but the best thing on the Torchy’s menu is not a taco at all, it is their queso. The Green Chili Queso is certainly a star, and that includes queso loaded with green chiles and topped with guacamole, cotija cheese, cilantro, and Diablo Sauce. But recently, I have gotten hooked on the Hillbilly Queso, which is basically the same thing with chorizo added.

The queso is silky and creamy, with a little bit of sharpness that brings everything together as a nice, savory dip. The taste of the green chiles is there in the background, but definitely noticeable. The guacamole (which comes mostly submerged) adds to the creaminess and delivers just a touch of sweetness. The cotija cheese adds a bit of saltiness, and the Diablo Sauce delivers some tang and a hint of garlic while also amping up the heat. And those flecks of cilantro bring a pungent, herby pop to finish things off.

Then there is the chorizo, which kicks an already excellent bowl of queso up to the next level. It has a nice meatiness along with just a touch of smoke. It is very rich and brings some boldness to the dish, but it blends well with the queso and does not overpower the other flavors. It also adds a bit more saltiness, but that is nicely balanced by the remaining ingredients. There is a little kick from the sausage as well, which nudges the heat just a touch beyond the Green Chile version.

The Hillbilly Queso lands at about Medium on my scale as far as the heat goes, and that burn lingers a bit. I prefer more of a kick, though, so I ask for extra Diablo Sauce to add into the mix. That pushes it close to Hot on my scale and right to that perfect juncture I look for where Fire meets Flavor.

Nutrition-wise, I have seen numbers around 800 calories for the full-sized Hillbilly Queso and chips, but that seems low, and I wonder if that figure is for the dip only. You can get a half order to limit your calorie intake, but this stuff is so addictive that you will probably end up ordering a second one after finishing the first (though getting a taco alongside it might help). I usually just put my diet on hold when I get this and enjoy the splurge.

The full order sells for $8.40 in my area, which is not bad for a pretty darn filling meal. I know that tacos are what made Torchy’s famous, but this is one of the best quesos I have ever had at a restaurant, and I order it more often than their other items. The best move is to go with someone else so you can share the queso and still get a taco. And be sure to grab some Diablo Sauce because it really packs a punch and pairs perfectly with the queso, tacos, and other menu items.