by Bottom Line: Panfilla Cantina in San Antonio offers authentic Mexican Cuisine that goes beyond standard Tex Mex fare and some of their selections bring the heat!
There are plenty of Tex Mex restaurants in San Antonio that offer some darn good Texas-style Mexican food. But if you are in the mood for something a little different than crispy beef tacos, enchiladas with chili-cheese gravy, and/or fajitas with all the fixins, this town certainly has you covered. A couple of months back I wrote about the authentic Mexican restaurant Tlahco which I was quite impressed with (more on that one here). And right down the road from that is another little place called Panfilla Cantina that is also preparing food closer to what you would find south of the border.
This tiny little restaurant shares a kitchen with Spice Indian Cuisine (another spicy destination and watch for a future post on that one) in a strip center at the corner of Evans and Bulverde in northeast San Antonio. They bill themselves as an “authentic Mexican Restaurant”, and even though their menu is not very large, they have plenty of tasty items to choose from that you won’t find in just any taco joint in town.
This is not the type of place that brings out free chips and salsa at the start of the meal, but you can order those for five bucks. That may seem like a hefty price tag (especially with today’s inflation), but they bring a large plate of chips with several different salsas to try (and I believe it is free refills). Their chili de arbol sauce is definitely the one that lovers of spicy food will seek out because it delivers a nice earthy taste with plenty of heat. The tomatillo sauce is tangy and quite tasty as well with a bit of a kick. If you don’t order the chips and salsa, they will bring some of the sauce with your meal on request.
I have been there twice so far and each time I got the Queso Adobado for an appetizer. That is melted string cheese, guajillo adobo, chorizo, and potatoes that is served with fresh-made corn or flour tortillas. This is definitely not the typical queso you get at a Tex Mex place, but it is also not the same as the more authentic Queso Flameado you find at some Mexican restaurants. It is somewhere in between with a softer cheese than the latter dish, though it definitely shares some of the same taste profile. I could make a meal on this alone and it delivers a bit of a kick (and pairs well with the chili de arbol sauce).
On my first visit, I had to try the gorditas because those are a particular favorite of mine. Those are like thick corn tortillas that are cut in the middle and stuffed with fillings. They are found throughout Mexico as well as Central and South American countries and they are becoming more popular in the states. Panfilla offers three different fillings: Oaxaca cheese with refried beans, chicharron verde, and mole. The gorditas were perfectly cooked with just a bit of crustiness to them and the fillings worked well in each. The rich mole was my favorite, though, and I will definitely be trying their Pollo con Mole on a future visit.
On my second trip, I had to try the torta which is another favorite of mine among authentic Mexican selections (pictured above). That is basically just a south-of-the-border sandwich, but the ingredients and bread take it to the next level. Panfilla’s version came with refried beans (a staple for tortas), Conchinita pibil (slow-roasted, shredded pork), and pickled red onions (note that I don’t see this version of the torta on the current menu). The pork is perfectly cooked and tender with a rich, earthy taste boosted by the complex seasonings. It has a little bit of heat, but that chili de arbol sauce really kicks up this sandwich. (Have you noticed that I liked that salsa?) The bread was crusty but not too dense and held everything together nicely. As a bonus, this is served with house-made potato chips with jalapeno slices and salsa roja. That is rather unexpected but they are quite crispy and delicious with a bit of a bite. They should add those to the appetizer section!
Both times my wife got the Chile Relleno which is not deep-fried like you find at many Tex Mex places. I snuck a couple of bites and it is a perfectly roasted poblano filled with picadillo and Oaxaca cheese and that salsa roja gives it a bit of a kick. I will have to order that on a future visit, and there are plenty more meals that I have queued up for when I return. They have a large selection of street tacos and their enchiladas are tempting as well. As mentioned above, I have to try their Pollo con Mole and the seafood selections are certainly worth considering.
If you are looking for Tex Mex-style tacos and nachos and burritos, this is not the place for you. It is also a bit pricier than the average Mexican restaurant. But it is worth it and if you want to expand your appreciation of authentic Mexican food, I highly recommend giving this place a try. It is quite small and fills up quickly in the evening, so come early or go online to reserve a table. And even though the menu is somewhat limited, there is plenty to pick from and you can’t go wrong with almost any of your choices.
Panfilla Cantina
22250 Bulverde Rd #114
San Antonio, TX 78261
Website: panfilacantinaandrestaurant.com
